Inflection Point

At some point, you reach a destination. You turn and head home. We rode to the Picos de Europa in northern Spain, rode until we ran out of asphalt in Fuente Dé, 1,000m up into the national park, sheer walls of limestone rising above our heads from where we camped. We spent a week and … Continue reading Inflection Point

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The Road to Thessaloniki – Part V: the final stretch 

Another border, another change in road quality and driving style, and a long descent to Lake Ohrid, the high lake peaceful and calm in the quiet of the evening. We pitched up fortuitously at an incredibly hospitable campsite right on the lake, two fields overlooking the still water, where the host at Camping Rino brought … Continue reading The Road to Thessaloniki – Part V: the final stretch 

The Road to Thessaloniki – Part IV: northern Italy and into the Balkans

After the flat lands of northern Italy from Verona on the fringes of the Alps, through Venice and round to Trieste, finally shaking off the rain as we followed stunning gravel mountain roads through Slovenia, we arrived in Croatia. The woman on the border control – the first time on the trip we’d had our … Continue reading The Road to Thessaloniki – Part IV: northern Italy and into the Balkans

The Road to Thessaloniki – Part III : apple trees and rollercoasters

From the quintessential 'Sound of Music' scenes of the Austrian Alps, we cross the border into Italy over the Reschen pass. I expect a sudden culture shift, all pizze, paste and cappuccini. And yet the only noticeable change is the sudden decline in road quality and increase in aggressive driving. Everything else feels very much … Continue reading The Road to Thessaloniki – Part III : apple trees and rollercoasters

The shade

The regional asylum office sits alongside a main industrial estate road on the outskirts of Thessaloniki, several kilometres from the centre. A collection of container offices surrounds a small patch of wilting grass, trodden to dirt between twenty or so wooden picnic benches. Driving there from the Help Refugees warehouse we pass the Softex refugee … Continue reading The shade

A snapshot of life in Nea Kavala refugee camp

Under the blistering midsummer heat of northern Greece lies a disused military airfield surrounded by dramatic hills and fields of sunflowers. On the approach, there's nothing that hints at the existence of the international community of displaced people housed on its long tarmac strip. A small turning off the main road gives way to a … Continue reading A snapshot of life in Nea Kavala refugee camp